Tucked away in the south east of the
Baltic region, Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania is a little gem just waiting
to be explored. Sometimes a little rough around the edges, the city can be
excused for needing more time to re-establish itself. For the past 60 years
Lithuania, along with its Baltic friends Estonia and Latvia, have borne the
brunt of a bitter bloody violent pan-European struggle between the Soviet Union
from the east and ze Chermans from the west. However it is that very mix of
influence left behind from both directions that underscores the charm of this
lovely city and country.
"A little from the east and a little
from the west". On one side, it is not hard to imagine what life would
have been like under Soviet rule. The remnants now evident in the run down
utilities and infrastructure, few job opportunities, relative low wealth per
capita, a culmination of being ruled under an iron fist and KGB spy's eye.
Roads are bouncy, some buildings collapsed, weeds and litter blows in the wind
and generally plain faced people going about their day. From the west, at least
today, the city is teaming with tourists, high street shops, outdoor beer
gardens, french restaurants and many restored significant buildings.
A weekend spent in Vilnius will not disappoint.
Friday PM:
Vilnius is relatively easy to get to. Low
cost airlines reach Vilnius Airport from all over Europe. Arriving at the
airport is a pleasure simply because the airport is tiny and the cab ride to
the city is short. The plane wrecks parked along the apron do instil the first
images of a "work in progress" city.
Saturday AM:
Many city tours are offered, including the
very popular Segway City tour. However Vilnius is best explored on foot. After
a slow morning, a visit to the Museum of Genocide housed in the former KGB
headquarters is worthwhile. It is here you begin to grasp Lithuania's tumultuous
history. It is quite confronting to read of regular executions being carried
out up until 1987 or that significant people were under 100% spy coverage for
much of their lives. I guess it is naive of me to think that none of this is
happening in the world today (well, I know it is happening in various countries
and in various forms) but to stand inside the execution chamber and watch a
video re-enactment of these abrupt executions is nauseously powerful.
Saturday lunch:
You will note a distinct French slant to
many decent restaurants in Vilnius. I'm unclear of the history of this but am
not complaining. With access to excellent produce, a fine eye for detail and
paying in Litas, a meal out will not disappoint. Whether on purpose or not, the
Lithuanian's take the idea of a 'slow food' to a new level - don't expect your
meal to arrive quickly. Nestled behind the Church of St. Francis and Bernadine
and near St Anne's church, you will find the St Germain restaurant. The alley
location gives a homely feel and a perfect spot for a long relaxed lunch. See
what treasures you find stuck in the walls opposite.
Saturday afternoon:
The shallow but fast flowing river 'Neris'
divides the city between the relatively new business district and the more
substantial main part of the city. Across from the city between the Kalvariju
and Vrublevskio bridges - take your time to read the text planted into the
river bank. On one side it says in Lithuanian "I love you" and on the
other side "I love you too". Each year the flowers reappear to
re-state their feelings for each other. From here, and higher perches along the
river you can get a feel for the city and who it is. The potholes along the
footpath, the weeds growing tall and kids attempting to hook a fish are signs
of a city going about its day as only it knows best. Punching up above the
surface are a set of buildings across the spectrum of architecture: from new
glass forms to bland imposing soviet designs through to old timber plank
constructions. Walk even further and you get away from it altogether. The
magnificent 'Vingio Parkas' hugs the river to the west. On a sunny day, couples
walk happily; families barbeque and nudists just let it all hang out.
On your way to the river or after, also
check out the Vilnius Cathedral, the Gedminus Castle and main drag up the
Castle Street. Gotta get some touristy stuff in there as well. You will find no
end of shops selling amber jewellery and other linen handy-crafts, the pride of
Lithuania.
Saturday evening:
You will make any Lithuanian happy by
asking for local beers and showing an interest in their food and culture. As
very proud and patriotic people you are guaranteed a warm welcome if you show an
interest in their culture. You could start by enjoying a Svyturas beer as an
apertivo in front of the town hall at the end of Pilies St (Piazza Rotuses) or
along Vokieciu St.
If you want to eat French food you'd go to
France. Fine. However, one of the all-round best meals I've had is at Marche de
Provence (Svarco gatve). With excellent food, creatively presented dishes, a well-priced
wine list and a cosy atmosphere on the balcony overlooking the park or at the
back in the garden - it is really a gem in the Baltics. A burrata salad, salt
baked dorado and crème brulee is almost the perfect meal with friends in my
eyes. On a subsequent evening, the highlight was the veal carpaccio.
Saturday late:
After a few bottles of wine over dinner (I
asked everywhere but no one could tell me if there is such thing as wine
produced in Lithuania) maybe you're ready to delve head first into the small
but very much alive Vilnius Street. Here a number of bars and clubs centre
around one street corner and provide no end of opportunity for partying the
night away. If you're in Vilnius in the middle of summer, there is no much
night time to distract you from kicking on through the night. The Baltics are
famous for a strong drink and strong beats. Buddha Bar and Berlin Bar are all a
lot of fun; also Soul Box offers a more relaxed atmosphere.
Sunday:
A strong coffee is probably due after a
busy Saturday and the coffee shops near (near the Gates of Dawn) provide just
the place.
Unlike many of its western European
cousins, Vilnius's shops remain open on Sundays. With that in mind, a trip to a
supermarket or grocer (Stikliu g.) to pick up some picnic supplies and a walk
up the hill to the Kiausinis provides a perfect opportunity to while away the
day. The cured meats and cheeses rival that of France and the view from the
Mulen Ruzas (V. Mykolaicio-Putino gatve 5) is no Sacre Cur but shouldn't matter
if you have the right company.
For a Sunday afternoon session before
heading home, catch a cab out to "Belmontas Outdoor Cafe". It was
described to me as the "Beer and Zeppelin fun park" and didn't
disappoint, nor diverge from its given description. Belmontas (Belmonto gatve
17) is a sprawling restored mill and current event complex set in lovely
gardens with a small but fast flowing stream and waterfall adding a further
outdoors feel. The beer is brewed nearby and the zeppelins -a Lithuanian
favourite of meat surrounded in mash potato and then crumbed and deep fried-
will fill any hole in any stomach.
The city is a little light of for
sight-seeing but that's not to stop you from spending some extra days heading
out to Trakai or Kaunus or up to the Baltic Sea - Nida I’ve heard is a lovely
island.
There is no shortage of great places to
eat and drink:
- La Boehme
- Marcus Steak
- Bistro 18
- La Provence
- Rene
Enjoy!
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