Crashing out at Praful's pad was a welcome break. He has a great apartment with an open living room and big terrace. After not really sleeping properly a little afternoon nap was very enjoyable and needed. We had lunch at Forum (the big mall nearby) and did some last minute shopping to a) kill time and b) for the realisation that our Indian adventure was quickly coming to a close. Praful had cooked dinner for us, which we thought was amazing even if he played it down as peasant food! Actually he had kept the chicken an extra day because he had expected us in Bangalore the day before not planning for the delay. Praful was a superb host! We made our way to bed relatively early as the wedding was to start the next morning at 6am.
India May 2011 - The Indian Wedding
Crashing out at Praful's pad was a welcome break. He has a great apartment with an open living room and big terrace. After not really sleeping properly a little afternoon nap was very enjoyable and needed. We had lunch at Forum (the big mall nearby) and did some last minute shopping to a) kill time and b) for the realisation that our Indian adventure was quickly coming to a close. Praful had cooked dinner for us, which we thought was amazing even if he played it down as peasant food! Actually he had kept the chicken an extra day because he had expected us in Bangalore the day before not planning for the delay. Praful was a superb host! We made our way to bed relatively early as the wedding was to start the next morning at 6am.
India May 2011 - Getting back to Bangalore
The problem was, we weren't meant to be on this train. We had booked, but like in an earlier blog, we had learnt how this reservation / waiting system works. We hadn't made it through the waiting list and were stuck at spots 5,6,7 on the list. Just about everyone we asked said we should just get on and find a seat. Sarah and I were skeptical because our waiting list positions hadn't moved in a few days, indicating the spots were fixed. Maybe because I was looking forward to a sleep on the train or because of stupidity we still tried our luck. When the conductor arrived and asked for our tickets we pleaded innocence and asked where our beds were. He was quite abrupt with us. I tried to negotiate and push him to work out a solution for us. We had just sat down in an empty cubicle.
India May 2011 - Allepey
Allepey is proclaimed as the "Venice of the East". Based in northern Kerala, one of the southern most states in India is basically a small fishing town with a large tourist population. Kerala is / was one of the only communist run states in India, thus seeing the hammer and sickle flown high was a common sight. Venice of the East because of the back-water areas, that have made this part of India famous. And it was for the back-waters that we had come.
India May 2011 - The Train Ride
Having heard a lot about the great train rides in India we had somewhat high expectations. These expectations were matched and exceeded.
Booking a train in India is not a trivial as hopping on a German fasttrain ICE and finding a seat and paying the conductor. As some routes are only provided once a week, a significant amount of planning is required. As there are only a limited number of seats, booking is essential. However instead of closing off the booking list when the train is full, your 'expression of interest to be on the train' is lodged and you are put on the waiting list. This list gets whittled down as people cancel their bookings. These cancellations are pretty high as many travel agents buy up tickets and if they can't sell them, simply cancel at the last minute. We had Avinash book nearly a month in advance for a sleeper train and was positioned around 25 on the list. Two days before our trip, we were 10ish on the list and by the afternoon before our scheduled departure had secured a seat each on the train from Gokarna to Mangalore and a bed each on the sleeper from Mangalore to Allepey.
India May 2011 - Gokarna
Gokarna is a small village in north west Karnataka on the west coast of India at the Adriatic Sea. The region of Goa is 50kms to the north as its more well known cousin. Pilgrims flock to Gokarna for the many temples and easy going pace of life. In fact the place was packed with Indian Tourists who had travelled far and wide to spend some time here. May is off-season for western tourists although a few lingered.
India May 2011 - Bus ride from hell
We had been warned. Our Irish friend, Maive, explained to us the night before how she would never recommend an overnight sleeper bus for travel around India. She told us of the drivers being notorious for ingesting pharmaceutical speed and living off a diet of whiskey. Taking one look at our bus driver's eyes, you could see he wasn't a healthy human-being and probably fitted into the stereotype Maive described.
We stuck it out a) thinking that our last bus ride wasn't so bad and b) through lack of another option but stick to plan. As we took off in a cloud of smoke, a grumbling diff and very hoarse exhaust - we thought the idea of a sleeper really was really quite good.
We stuck it out a) thinking that our last bus ride wasn't so bad and b) through lack of another option but stick to plan. As we took off in a cloud of smoke, a grumbling diff and very hoarse exhaust - we thought the idea of a sleeper really was really quite good.
India May 2011 Hampi - Stepping back in time
In a blaze of glory, as the bus kicked up a large dust storm signally the arrival of new visitors, "fresh meat", we arrived. Hampi is both a spiritual hub and also a tourist haven. Tour guides and tuk tuk drivers converged on us like hawks smelling fresh tourist blood - something we had been warned of.
We escaped the onslaught with firm NO's to all and made our way to the Shaanti Guest House. Apparently the better place to stay in town, it's jail-cell rooms and basic ammenities were modest at best. Nonetheless a welcome place to turn the ceiling fan on full and close ones eyes after the journey and rest.
We escaped the onslaught with firm NO's to all and made our way to the Shaanti Guest House. Apparently the better place to stay in town, it's jail-cell rooms and basic ammenities were modest at best. Nonetheless a welcome place to turn the ceiling fan on full and close ones eyes after the journey and rest.
India May 2011 - Bangalore to Hampi
Waking up to our second day, we were somewhat refreshed after a real sleep on a flat bed under the cooling flow and hypnotic click-thump-click-thump of the ceiling fan.
After a slow breakfast and chat with the owner in the cool of the verandah of the hostel we made for the nearest autorick-shaw. Two lessons of india here: one, the tuk-tuk and two, bargaining.
After a slow breakfast and chat with the owner in the cool of the verandah of the hostel we made for the nearest autorick-shaw. Two lessons of india here: one, the tuk-tuk and two, bargaining.
India May 2011 - Photos
Go to https://picasaweb.google.com/ajoest/IndiaMay2011# for all the photos from the trip...
This is a combination of both Sarah's great shots and my photos.
This is a combination of both Sarah's great shots and my photos.
India May 2011 - First impressions, Bangalore
After an average flight with Emirates (Hamburg via Dubai to Bangalore) we arrived to a modern Bengarulu airport in a mild heat with adventure in our minds.
I'm travelling with a long time friend Sarah to South India with the catalyst of the trip being to celebrate Avinash's (a mate from business school) wedding. We both came with grand ideas of exploring "Incredible india".
I'm travelling with a long time friend Sarah to South India with the catalyst of the trip being to celebrate Avinash's (a mate from business school) wedding. We both came with grand ideas of exploring "Incredible india".
India May 2011 - Intro
With the news that a buddy from business school was getting married in May, I began to plan a trip to India. Specifically to southern India. It has always been a destination on my to-travel list and what better catalyst than this.
This blog series outlines our trip landing into Bangalore, busing to Hampi, then across to Gokarna, training down to Alleppey and then back to the wedding in Bangalore. All of this happened in two weeks. Sleep was optional...
Our hosts were the groom, Avinash and also Praful, another business school mate. Both were magnificent hosts organising and playing tour-guide where possible. I was lucky to have a great travel buddy - Sarah, a long time friend who wanted to join and helped make it a memorable adventure. Also to join was Frederic from business school. We met a ton a fantastic people along the way.
I hope this set of notes (it may take a week or two to complete!) give you a snap-shot of our adventure. Photos will be posted to picasa and linked along the way.
This blog series outlines our trip landing into Bangalore, busing to Hampi, then across to Gokarna, training down to Alleppey and then back to the wedding in Bangalore. All of this happened in two weeks. Sleep was optional...
Our hosts were the groom, Avinash and also Praful, another business school mate. Both were magnificent hosts organising and playing tour-guide where possible. I was lucky to have a great travel buddy - Sarah, a long time friend who wanted to join and helped make it a memorable adventure. Also to join was Frederic from business school. We met a ton a fantastic people along the way.
I hope this set of notes (it may take a week or two to complete!) give you a snap-shot of our adventure. Photos will be posted to picasa and linked along the way.
Singapore November 2010
Light snow was falling as I boarded a Qantas 747 bound for Singapore. Before take-off the plane needed to be de-iced and prepared for its 12 hour flight across to the small island just below Malaysia and across from Indonesia.
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