Having heard a lot about the great train rides in India we had somewhat high expectations. These expectations were matched and exceeded.
Booking a train in India is not a trivial as hopping on a German fasttrain ICE and finding a seat and paying the conductor. As some routes are only provided once a week, a significant amount of planning is required. As there are only a limited number of seats, booking is essential. However instead of closing off the booking list when the train is full, your 'expression of interest to be on the train' is lodged and you are put on the waiting list. This list gets whittled down as people cancel their bookings. These cancellations are pretty high as many travel agents buy up tickets and if they can't sell them, simply cancel at the last minute. We had Avinash book nearly a month in advance for a sleeper train and was positioned around 25 on the list. Two days before our trip, we were 10ish on the list and by the afternoon before our scheduled departure had secured a seat each on the train from Gokarna to Mangalore and a bed each on the sleeper from Mangalore to Allepey.
The train experience can't be too far from that of yesteryear allbeit with diesel loco's instead of steam. Our second class seated trip from Gokarna was a wonderful experience. Being with the "people" was a most memorable experience. Like everywhere we had been so far, Indians are inherently warm, generous, curious and genuine people. No where was this experienced better than sitting side by side with them clickety clacking through their beautiful land.
The general compartment we were in, as mentioned, did feel relatively ancient. The open windows and basic coachwork did give a rough but functional feel to the carriage. On the ceiling were a dense array of fans to assist in keeping the carriage cool. They had collected a lifetime of dusk and grime but did circulate a good amount of air even on this warm day (it had been warmer).
Bright eyed kids were pretend to walk past our seats trying to get a glimpse of the blonde haired people. Then after a few passes would stop to ask "where are you from" and chat for a bit. Parents would watch with almost of a nod of proudness. Girls would always focus on Sarah while the boys almost always started first talking to me. They would bring snacks and hang out. Attempting to pronounce their names was a failure on my behalf but it led to some good giggles! All very cute. The kid sitting opposite us with big bright green/grey eyes was somewhat shy early but after a while noticed us talking with the others and began to open up. It was all in all an awesome few hours with the kids. Also part of the performance was a group of adult standing in the aisle near the door talking all things business. It seemed they didn't know each other prior but still they talked and talked and talked. The chai-wallah's would come past. The sweet tea/coffee shots could be purchased for 5 rupees. Each time a chai-wallah would enter the cabin would be a flurry of activity as people would get their cash and place their orders. The chai-boys were certainly earning their keep! Also biryani would be served for anyone needing a hearty pile of spiced rice with boiled egg.
The 6 hours to Mangalore flew by with all this activity. Mr know-it-all had fallen asleep and after a while the kids had alighted at their respective stops. The wind through the cage-like windows cooled slightly and the general ambiance was very peaceful as we approached Mangalore Train Station. Up until having to get off, I loved sticking my head out the window to look out at the Indian dusk. It's just an experience you can't have with any other form of transport. I'm writing this right now as I sit on the ICE from Stuttgart to Frankfurt and as great as it is to look out at the green almost-manicured landscape it's still not the same as being able stick your whole body out of the train and watch the landscape go by, wave at the people along the side of the rail area and marvell at a truly spectacular landscape rich with vibrant colour and often potent smells! The colours are worth "trying" to explain. Not so easy! During the afternoon, I had a feeling that there was rain on its way. There was a thick feel in the air, the sky was grey and the temperature had dropped a few degrees. Where there were no clouds, a powerful sun would punch light across the landscape in thick light beams. This combination always gives a great diffusion of light instead of the intense white blast when there is no cloud cover. With this, the red earth, the trees, flowers, grasses and other colours really start to jump out at you. Sadly my little camera couldn't capture this contrast. Women walking home in their colourful saree's would splash colour onto the backdrop of green trees and fields, the mud houses, painted in pastel tones, would express a sense a grandeur far greater than their physical selves and for me the red earth, rich ochre red earth was the most powerful impression, something I haven't seen since the red earth of central Australia after rain. So amazing, so incredible, such a treat to view.
In Mangalore it was our turn to alight. We were to have a short three hour stop before catching our onward southbound train. We had hoped for something to eat, as we hadn't opted for the Biryani at the time. However the restaurant was closed as many of the railway staff were on strike. We thought we can't be too far from town so stepped out to find a rick-shaw. This proved to be an almost fatal move. When 15 rick-shaw drivers turn on you, surround you and intimidate you when simply asking how much the fare is and how far it would be - it's time to get out of there. That we did. With our tails between our legs, gut feel overruled and the weird situation was overted. Both of us felt it at the same time although we really had no idea what had triggered this almost wolf-pack approach by the tuk-tuk drivers. Anyway, in the end, a Biriyani at the station was found and we settled in on a hessian sack to wait for the train.
It did arrive - about 1.5 hours later. Nonetheless, we were finally pleased to get on board and hunt out our sleeper bed. This time we travelled on a "2AC" sleeper. Pure luxury. It was air-conditioned to Siberian levels but to lie down (with centimetres to spare between head and foot) was pure bliss. On the right hand side were booths with triple bunks perpendicular to the direction of travel. Each booth had thick curtains. Along the left hand side of the relative tight corridor were double bunks running parallel to the direction of travel. Again with curtains, although tightly jammed in, it was a very private way to travel. The beds were comfortable and linen and blankets were provided to fight the cold! In no time I was fast-asleep to the gentle rocking and clicking of the carriage. A very deep sleep it was, allbeit a short one.
Not long after - around 7am, did I wake lightly to the sound of my fellow travellers in the booth next door. The sound was not unfamiliar nor unpleasant. Just unexpected. It was a family playing Bollywood films on their laptop. The kids were singing and dancing and generally enjoying their morning. In the end, I rolled back and fell asleep. Still very tired, I was happy to doze with the bollywood jingles in the background.
We soon arrived at Allepey. The train had made up time and we were soon out of the freezer van and out into the morning sun. We had planned (old-school by setting a time and a location to meet some - without the use of modern technology!) to meet our french/german friend, Fred, at he station. He had come from Kochi via taxi. Like Germans are renowned for - we met punctually and efficiently on the platform as discussed. Perfect!
Sadly that was to be our last train ride. Although we had planned another wtrip e couldn't get off the waiting list. More on that "after Allepey"
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