36hrs in Vilnius, Lithuania



Tucked away in the south east of the Baltic region, Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania is a little gem just waiting to be explored. Sometimes a little rough around the edges, the city can be excused for needing more time to re-establish itself. For the past 60 years Lithuania, along with its Baltic friends Estonia and Latvia, have borne the brunt of a bitter bloody violent pan-European struggle between the Soviet Union from the east and ze Chermans from the west. However it is that very mix of influence left behind from both directions that underscores the charm of this lovely city and country.


"A little from the east and a little from the west". On one side, it is not hard to imagine what life would have been like under Soviet rule. The remnants now evident in the run down utilities and infrastructure, few job opportunities, relative low wealth per capita, a culmination of being ruled under an iron fist and KGB spy's eye. Roads are bouncy, some buildings collapsed, weeds and litter blows in the wind and generally plain faced people going about their day. From the west, at least today, the city is teaming with tourists, high street shops, outdoor beer gardens, french restaurants and many restored significant buildings.

A weekend spent in Vilnius will not disappoint.

Friday PM:
Vilnius is relatively easy to get to. Low cost airlines reach Vilnius Airport from all over Europe. Arriving at the airport is a pleasure simply because the airport is tiny and the cab ride to the city is short. The plane wrecks parked along the apron do instil the first images of a "work in progress" city.


Saturday AM:
Many city tours are offered, including the very popular Segway City tour. However Vilnius is best explored on foot. After a slow morning, a visit to the Museum of Genocide housed in the former KGB headquarters is worthwhile. It is here you begin to grasp Lithuania's tumultuous history. It is quite confronting to read of regular executions being carried out up until 1987 or that significant people were under 100% spy coverage for much of their lives. I guess it is naive of me to think that none of this is happening in the world today (well, I know it is happening in various countries and in various forms) but to stand inside the execution chamber and watch a video re-enactment of these abrupt executions is nauseously powerful.


Saturday lunch:
You will note a distinct French slant to many decent restaurants in Vilnius. I'm unclear of the history of this but am not complaining. With access to excellent produce, a fine eye for detail and paying in Litas, a meal out will not disappoint. Whether on purpose or not, the Lithuanian's take the idea of a 'slow food' to a new level - don't expect your meal to arrive quickly. Nestled behind the Church of St. Francis and Bernadine and near St Anne's church, you will find the St Germain restaurant. The alley location gives a homely feel and a perfect spot for a long relaxed lunch. See what treasures you find stuck in the walls opposite.


Saturday afternoon:
The shallow but fast flowing river 'Neris' divides the city between the relatively new business district and the more substantial main part of the city. Across from the city between the Kalvariju and Vrublevskio bridges - take your time to read the text planted into the river bank. On one side it says in Lithuanian "I love you" and on the other side "I love you too". Each year the flowers reappear to re-state their feelings for each other. From here, and higher perches along the river you can get a feel for the city and who it is. The potholes along the footpath, the weeds growing tall and kids attempting to hook a fish are signs of a city going about its day as only it knows best. Punching up above the surface are a set of buildings across the spectrum of architecture: from new glass forms to bland imposing soviet designs through to old timber plank constructions. Walk even further and you get away from it altogether. The magnificent 'Vingio Parkas' hugs the river to the west. On a sunny day, couples walk happily; families barbeque and nudists just let it all hang out.

On your way to the river or after, also check out the Vilnius Cathedral, the Gedminus Castle and main drag up the Castle Street. Gotta get some touristy stuff in there as well. You will find no end of shops selling amber jewellery and other linen handy-crafts, the pride of Lithuania.


Saturday evening:
You will make any Lithuanian happy by asking for local beers and showing an interest in their food and culture. As very proud and patriotic people you are guaranteed a warm welcome if you show an interest in their culture. You could start by enjoying a Svyturas beer as an apertivo in front of the town hall at the end of Pilies St (Piazza Rotuses) or along Vokieciu St.

If you want to eat French food you'd go to France. Fine. However, one of the all-round best meals I've had is at Marche de Provence (Svarco gatve). With excellent food, creatively presented dishes, a well-priced wine list and a cosy atmosphere on the balcony overlooking the park or at the back in the garden - it is really a gem in the Baltics. A burrata salad, salt baked dorado and crème brulee is almost the perfect meal with friends in my eyes. On a subsequent evening, the highlight was the veal carpaccio.


Saturday late:
After a few bottles of wine over dinner (I asked everywhere but no one could tell me if there is such thing as wine produced in Lithuania) maybe you're ready to delve head first into the small but very much alive Vilnius Street. Here a number of bars and clubs centre around one street corner and provide no end of opportunity for partying the night away. If you're in Vilnius in the middle of summer, there is no much night time to distract you from kicking on through the night. The Baltics are famous for a strong drink and strong beats. Buddha Bar and Berlin Bar are all a lot of fun; also Soul Box offers a more relaxed atmosphere.


Sunday:
A strong coffee is probably due after a busy Saturday and the coffee shops near (near the Gates of Dawn) provide just the place.

Unlike many of its western European cousins, Vilnius's shops remain open on Sundays. With that in mind, a trip to a supermarket or grocer (Stikliu g.) to pick up some picnic supplies and a walk up the hill to the Kiausinis provides a perfect opportunity to while away the day. The cured meats and cheeses rival that of France and the view from the Mulen Ruzas (V. Mykolaicio-Putino gatve 5) is no Sacre Cur but shouldn't matter if you have the right company.

For a Sunday afternoon session before heading home, catch a cab out to "Belmontas Outdoor Cafe". It was described to me as the "Beer and Zeppelin fun park" and didn't disappoint, nor diverge from its given description. Belmontas (Belmonto gatve 17) is a sprawling restored mill and current event complex set in lovely gardens with a small but fast flowing stream and waterfall adding a further outdoors feel. The beer is brewed nearby and the zeppelins -a Lithuanian favourite of meat surrounded in mash potato and then crumbed and deep fried- will fill any hole in any stomach.


The city is a little light of for sight-seeing but that's not to stop you from spending some extra days heading out to Trakai or Kaunus or up to the Baltic Sea - Nida I’ve heard is a lovely island.


There is no shortage of great places to eat and drink:
- La Boehme
- Marcus Steak
- Bistro 18
- La Provence
- Rene

Enjoy!

No comments: